Tashkent is not a particularly attractive city, but we are learning a lot about the history and culture of Uzbekistan. Our guide, Mirza, a young Uzbeki man, is the perfect guide: his English is excellent, he is very knowledgeable, he shares just the right amount of info, and he has a great sense of humour.
He grew up on a collective farm during the Soviet era. He speaks fondly of his childhood, when everyone had jobs, homes, and plenty to eat. He is also very happy with life now, although he said it is much harder to earn a comfortable living.
The historic buildings were all destroyed in the 1966 earthquake. That was during the Soviet era - and rebuilding was done in what Mirza refers to as "brutalist" style. I thought he was commenting on the brutally ugly buildings, but apparently Brutalist Architecture refers to "betón brut" which means raw concrete in French.
During the Soviet Thaw, beautiful mosaics were added to the facades of many buildings. If you're interested in details there is an excellent UNESCO article about this period.
https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwhc.unesco.org%2Fen%2Ftentativelists%2F6708%2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7C2abc04bbbd3748e7da0208dd76a277a1%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638797162344844923%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=kd6g4DZCP73URU05LSeoYGVyMqqoCnQ03koAWn11dAs%3D&reserved=0
We have seen so much, and eaten so much! I feel full all the time.
For the sake of expediency, I have uploaded a bunch of photos, and I will add captions.
Museum of Applied Arts
Busy modern roads. The most popular car is a small white Chevy, because they are made in Uzbekistan.
Demonstration of tambour embroidery, done with a fine crochet hook. This is the technique used on suzanis.
Tracing the pattern onto silk/ cotton to make a traditional coat.
Mirza getting us tickets for the subway.
The subway stations are spectacular, with beautiful art, tilework and lighting.
This is the Cosmonaut station.
Uzbekistan written in Cyrillic
The "cotton" station has these beautiful cotton ball chandeliers.
Women sweeping the pathways.
A Soviet statue of soldiers with guns was removed when Uzbekistan became independent in 1991. This very moving sculpture of a grieving mother was erected, with an eternal flame burning in front.
We tasted semalak, a delicious syrup which is made by boiling wheat sprouts for 20 hours. It is prepared for Navruz, the end of winter.
Another type of bread done in a tandoori type oven. It is delicious.
More bread. As you can see, bread is an important part of life here.
This photo is out of place. It is another subway station.
A cradle. The baby lays on blankets with a hole, over a ceramic pot. One of these plastic (or wooden) "peepee pipes" is placed over the baby's urethra, so urine flows into the pot.
Our lunch today in someone's home.
Work being done on a mosque. See the guy standing up there?
Afternoon is kite flying time.
And now I have to go to sleep. We have to be up early tomorrow to take the bullet train to Samarkand.
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