First of all, the weather! I've been coming since 2001, and I used to be confident there would be no rain from the end of October until April. Now we are still getting the occasional shower in mid-November. That, presumably is due to climate change.
It is also so busy!! There are a lot more people and a lot more traffic. It seems there are more wealthy Guatemalans and fewer foreign tourists. That might be an effect of the pandemic. It has only been since the beginning of November that they lifted mask regulations. As at home, some people still choose to wear them. I was amused to see a family of four on a motorbike, all wearing masks, but no one wearing helmets.
They have cracked down on some of the road regulations. They are very strict about the one way streets, and taxi drivers will not risk going even a few metres in the wrong direction. When we arrived from the airport, our driver had to go a couple of km around a big block to get to our door.
They must also be stricter about stopping at stop signs, which used to seem optional. Now when you step off the curb at a corner, you don't take your life in your hands.
There is a lot of work going on: Road cobbles are being dug up and leveled in many spots. Plaster walls are being scraped and smoothed and painted. Trees, vines and other plants are being pruned.
Christmas decorations are starting to be seen. They have strung the lights on the trees in El Parque Central, but they haven't turned them on yet. It is spectacular when they do.
There seems to be something going on every weekend in the park. Last weekend was the display of the huge kites from the Day of the Dead. I posted those photos a few days ago. For many generations, kites have been flown in cemeteries to commune with their dead family members. These giant kites, up to 18 meters in diameter, have messages for the living, concerning education, women's rights, and mental health issues. There was a very touching moment when they hoisted a kite dedicated to migrant Guatemalans whose dream of a new life ended in death. We had a moment of silence.
That was a lovely day in the park. There was a variety of good live music, including a really good saxophonist, and a fantastic marimba band. Lots of locals were dancing to the marimba music.
This is also the time when 15 year old girls celebrate their "coming of age". Families save for years to pay for the celebration. The girls dress like princesses for the occasion, and we see them posing for photos around town.
We still see many familiar faces around town. Most of the vendors have been here year after year, and sadly, so have the same beggars. I haven't started reading in the park yet, because I have only seen a few kids there. Some are still in school until the end of this week. I hope to start then.
Most of our friends have returned, or stayed right though the pandemic. We went to hear our friends Joe and Grace perform last Saturday, and met many of our friends there. This weekend we're going to a bonfire with a bunch of friends.
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