Whew. It has been a busy short few days. I could be out having another experience, but I think I need a little quiet time by myself. In a few hours I'll be flying to Tashkent, Uzbekistan to begin the textile/ architecture tour.
I arrived in Istanbul April 3 after a comfortable flight on Turkish Airlines. I took melatonin and actually slept for a few hours.
I was surprised at how "unforeign" things seemed at the airport and on the one hour taxi ride to Istanbul. The six-lane highway cut through rolling treed land with occasional clumps of low-rise buildings. Sort of like an Ontario/ Iceland mix.
As we entered Istanbul, the roads became hilly, windy and narrow. Buildings are a mix of ancient and modern. Laundry hangs on lines outside apartment windows, as in Portugal.
My guesthouse was at the end of a very narrow alley. I don't know how the driver got out of there. Perhaps I'll find out when I leave today.
Marmara Guesthouse is comfortable, and provides an incredibly varied buffet breakfast. So many options, from enticing salads, through breads, cheeses, cakes, fruit, eggs and even Turkish delight. It is served on the beautiful rooftop terrace, with views over the Bosphurus Strait. I love watching the boats out there. Lots of fishing boats, ferries, container ships - and even a submarine yesterday.
It has been sunny and mild since I arrived. Beautiful temperatures for walking around, and then cooler at night.
I am in the old part of town, Sultanhamet, near mant of the historic buildings. The roads are lumpy cobblestones, and many areas are pedestrians only. It is just a 10 minute walk to the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace. The Grand Bazaar and Spice Market are just a bit further. There are lots of mosques, and I often hear the muezzin call to prayer.
There is a very nice vibe here. There are lots of people walking around, speaking languages other than English, but I don't know who are locals, and who are visitors. People are friendly and helpful, without being "in your face". I have only seen pleasant interactions. Not once have I heard a raised voice, or seen a scowling face.
Many of the women cover their heads, and a very few cover their face with just their eyes showing. I have asked a couple of women for directions, but they rarely speak English.
Most of my conversations have been with shopkeepers - always male. Usually they stand at their shop door, with a cigarette in one hand, and a small glass of tea in the other. If I stop to chat, a glass of tea is offered to me. I have had black tea, apple tea, pomegranate tea, mint tea and eucalyptus tea.
I've looked at gorgeous carpets, camel bags, lamps, tiles and jewelery, but I have resisted the temptation to buy anything ... so far.
I've met a few of the women who will be on the textile tour. One evening, we went to see a whirling dervish ceremony in a converted 15th century hammam (Turkish bath). This is a Sufi ceremony, a branch of Islam.
The ceremony began with music - two vocalists, a drummer, flutist, lap harp, and oud. All male. It was almost discordant, but somehow transported me. Six male dancers entered, and gradually began whirling, with eyes closed, slowly at first, gradually increasing in speed. It was mesmerizing. No photos, no chatting, no applause.
In the 13th century, apparently, the Muslim mystic, Rumi, incorporated whirling meditation into his teachings. Since everything in the universe whirls, this is a way of becoming one with the universe.
Yesterday morning, after visiting the Blue Mosque, I went to a hammam, for the whole bath experience. There are more than 100 hammams in town, from ancient to modern. I chose a traditional place, not too expensive, and within walking distance.
I thought it was a women-only hammam, and was taken aback when I was greeted by a man, and saw a couple of towel-clad men in the background. It seems that men's time was just finishing, and women's time was beginning. I had hoped there would be local women with whom to share the experience, but I was on my own.
After a glass of tea, a solid, middle-aged woman indicated that I should strip off and wrap myself in a Turkish towel. She then escorted me by hand into the completely marble steam room. "Come lady. Lie down lady." She left me to sweat for 20 minutes, then led me to the sauna to sweat for another 10 minutes.
Then she arrived in a sexy black bra and bikini undies, to escort me back to the marble room. Time for the hands-on part. First she scrubbed me down, back and front with a rough glove for about 10 minutes. I was well exfoliated. She sluiced me down with warm water, and then did a 20 minute "foam massage". She had a good firm touch, and it felt like she knew what she was doing. She finished by massaging my head, which felt lovely. More sluicing, and I was as smooth as a newborn babe.
More tea, and I was done. Feeling very relaxed, I kind of floated back to the guesthouse.
Later in the afternoon, I went with the three tour women and a young Japanese woman (who speaks Turkish!!) to a Turkish cooking class. The two chefs, an Italian man and a Turkish woman, were full of fun. "Add two Turkish teaspoons of olive oil", meant pour in copious quantities, glug, glug, glug.
We prepared a five-course meal, which took a couple of hours: lentil soup (with Canadian red lentils!), zucchini fritters, stuffed courgettes, a lamb/ beef mixture wrapped in grapeleaves, and for dessert, figs stuffed with walnuts and cooked in a sweet syrup. We enjoyed it with a bottle of Turkish wine. I was stuffed, but I slept well.
I love it here. I think I should return one day to explore more of Turkey.
