Last Days of Trip

This is the image on the flag of Kyrgystan, representing the tunduk at the centre of the yurt.

Here it is again, on a building which is the site of the World Nomad Games, held biennially. Competitions include horsemanship, archery, eagle hunting, etc.

Some of these petroglyphs date from the Bronze Age (about 1500 BC), but most are Saka-Usun (8th century BC to 1st century AD), predating the arrival of Kyrgyz in the area. Saka priests used this sacred site for sacrifices and other rites to the sun god and they lived in the settlements that are currently underwater in the Cholpon-Ata bay. Later engravings date from the Turkic era (5th to 10th century). Most are of long-horned ibex. There are also burial stones.

Crossing the river to our final night at the Cholpon Ata Lodge. 

This is Wanda, cooking borsok, tasty little fried breads.

A closer look at the simple outdoor "woodstove". You feed wood into the diagonal part, air enters from below, cooking surface on top. 

Fresh sheets for the lodge.

Sunset at the lodge.

Mirza and I on the swing. I instructed him on when to bend and straighten his knees, and we got swinging very high.

Working on a small sample of shyrdak, the inlaid felt carpet technique.

On our final afternoon, we returned to busy Bishkek, and participated in a nuno felting workshop to make silk/ wool scarves.

All of us modeling our scarves.

This box holds some real stones, and some made of felt. Can you tell the difference?

I should have included a toilet photo earlier. Some hotels have a hose by the toilet, to accommodate those who like to wash instead of using toilet paper. Looks potentially very messy.

And finally, at the airport, this kid went whizzing by on his suitcase scooter. What a great concept. 

The trip home took almost 24 hellish hours. I slept quite well the first night home, but I was like a zombie the next day, and needed frequent naps. Surprisingly, I slept well again the second night, and now I'm fine. 

It was a fabulous trip, learning about a part of the world that I knew nothing about. The people of Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan were exceptionally hospitable, the food and accommodations were great, and the sights, spectacular. They felt like the safest countries I have ever visited. I highly recommend both countries. 

Issyk-Kul, Kyrgystan

These days in Kyrgystan have been the best of the whole trip. The scenery is gorgeous, and we've had some amazing experiences.

Here we saw a demonstration of the skills of the eagle hunters. With the backdrop of the Tian Shan Mountains, it was spectacular. 

Holding this eagle was a peak experience for me.

From there we drove to Kyzyl-Tuu village, which is the centre of yurtmaking in Kyrgystan. We watched how the willow branches are stripped, steamed and bent to make the roof supports. Then we helped put a yurt together. It is such a beautiful structure - I was tempted to order one and have it shipped home as extra accommodation at the cottage. A 4 metre diameter felt yurt would cost about US$3500, plus a similar cost to have it shipped. I realize it would not be practical for conditions at home. No windows, and possibly a great attraction to critters. 

By the way, the lovely design, called "tunduk", at the top of the yurt is what is on the flag of Kyrgystan. 

Last night we slept at Tamga Yurt Lodge, a yurt camp for tourists at the edge of Lake Izzyk-Kul. We had real beds and a heater. I slept exceptionally well in those beautiful surroundings. 

 I found this beautiful selection of stones on the shore.

Sunset over the lake.

After dinner in a bigger yurt, a local family came to entertain us with traditional music. 

We ended off by dancing with the young girl. 

Sunrise this morning. 

Further on we went to "Red Rocks".

That little white dot is a yurt.

Up at the top I had a delicious cappuccino at "Coffee Peak". 

We had lunch today with a Dungan family. The Dungans were Muslim Chinese who fled from China over a hundred years ago. 

This is grandma with her youngest grandson. 

Grandma gave me a memento, which will soon be added to my plate display.

Now we are staying overnight in Karakol, which has this old Russian Orthodox church. 

Somehow we also fitted in a needle felting workshop. Most people made sheep, but I branched out to make a dragon. It isn't finished yet, and not photo worthy. 

Only two days left!